Dateline Indore: Travel through the land of saffron poppies

Article first published in +ABPLIVE Click here

The tract from Chittaurgarh in Rajasthan to the adjoining districts of Neemuch and Mandsaur in the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh is remarkably prosperous. These are few areas in the country that have ‘licensed’ cultivation of poppy. After handing over the contracted quantities to the state there is enough ‘extras’ and left-over by products (like Poshto and Doda) to be traded under the benevolent eyes of a deity – Sanwariya Seth – considered as a ‘business partner’ by the locals. Needless to add, the supplementary income exceeds the official earnings by multiples. So, Digvijaya Singh was being clever by half when he dared Shivraj Singh Chauhan to ban poppy cultivation in Madhya Pradesh.

Business here is generally insulated from economic downturns unless, of course, the crop is severely affected. Opiates are in demand both in times of depression and boom – a local associate with interest in real estate and jewellery enlightens me. Unlike neighbouring Rajasthan where  a certain degree of dissonance is palpable, Malwa is still soaked in saffron. On a visible high after the resounding success of the recent Ujjain Simhastha Kumbh, he is not worried about another term for BJP in the state or a second innings for Modi. But, as a businessman his critique of Modi Sarkar is on approach and strategy.

Modi-ji had promised to get “Kala-Dhan” from abroad – but instead his government seems more concerned about unearthing black money of the people who voted for BJP. He was upset at the real-estate business being in the doldrums stuck with high inventory and the counter-productive excise duty imposed on jewellery. The fear of the taxman had led to the flight of free-cash – the life-blood of builders . For jewellery – the one-percent tax is not an issue – but that it would force jewelers to declare transactions in “white” would be a major nuisance for the trade. He blamed such ‘impractical’ decisions on bureaucrats – whom he felt were alive to the difficulties of large industrialists but had little understanding of the problems of small businessmen and traders. A subtle replay, as it were, of the ‘suit-boot’ refrain – but the general angst at the elusive “miracles” that one saw a year ago had distinctly dissipated.

Yet – he is hopeful of the future. After three consecutive bad seasons the Rabi crops were healthy. A bumper Soya Bean harvest was in the offing. Now with predictions of a good monsoon the mood in the rural economy is looking up. Infrastructure projects are showing signs of traction and with the elections on the horizon – the state government is beginning to loosen its purse strings. Overall – the realization was beginning to set in that – while the dream of ‘Acche Din’ may have been a hyperbole – things could have been much worse and the government had managed the economy pretty well under the circumstances.

Now, cut to Indore. Meet a bunch of saffron-ites from the trading community of the city and nearby towns.  Though there was no windfall for the ‘faithful’, they can sense a certain stability and predictability in the business environment. Even though it has been a long time since Congress last ruled the state – the memories of mismanagement and corruption are yet to heal and the factional infighting between the major and minor royalties does not inspire confidence for a resurrection any time soon.

I tease them about the prices of tomatoes. That we can think of having tomatoes in summer is itself a sign of changing times, they retort. Indians are accustomed to cyclical shortages and inflation is part of progress and the people they feel are convinced about the sincerity of the government. If these crises were to happen due to “ghotala” (corruption), reckless action or negligence there would be backlash. Now they know it has happened despite the best efforts of the central government. So no one is blaming Modi.

Everyone understands, the key is growth of the economy and as long as that is ensured everything else will quietly fall in place. Meanwhile, the benefits of all the schemes launched by the Prime Minister – be it Jan Dhan Yojana or Crop Insurance will start yielding dividends and reduce dependence on doles.

Again I try to bait them on BJP’s uncertain prospects in Punjab and possible set back in Rajasthan. As they invoke the now familiar logic of the changing dynamics between state and central elections. I argue why would the same not apply to Rahul Gandhi or Kejriwal – but it only invites laughter of derision. The ‘Bhakts’ if you insist on calling them so  are convinced Modi and Amit Shah are working to a plan and 2019 will see an encore of the “Modi Magic”.  Citing Modi’s towering ratings in all recent opinion polls the say “the Man is the Message” and that is why Modi cuts through the layers and communicates directly with the masses.

And, just then Boom!! Narendra Modi comes on air to answer everything the nation wanted to know but were afraid to ask.

God as a partner in crime

Poppy Cultivation and Amoral Gods !!

Article first published in +Medium  (Click here to read)

Indian God’s have traditionally been indulgent towards criminals and the corrupt. There are enough stories of deities – whom Dacoits would routinely visit for blessings before going for a hunt. Equally, spiritual leaders and religious missions are not known to discriminate on the colour of money or the character of the donor.

Visited the temple of Sanwaliya-ji near Chittorgarh off the highway to Udaipur. The idol is a form of dark-complexioned Krishna – a favourite God in these parts of the country.
Poppy is the principal cash-crop of this rather affluent region of Rajasthan adjoining Neemuch and Mandsaur the main poppy cultivation belt of Madhya Pradesh. Though poppy farming a licensed – there are enough avenues to beat the system for a thriving contraband trade beyond the officially declared produce.

Poppy-traders treat Sanwariya-ji their protector and benefactor. It is an open secret – poppy traders make the Lord a divine “business partner” committing a certain percentage of their annual earning to Him. Hence, Sanwaliya ji is often referred to as Sanwariya Seth (as “owners” of a business).
This probably explains – at least to an extent – the rather pragmatic attitude Indians have towards corruption (if not crime, as well). It is seen simply as a means of “livelihood” – to be pursued in a dispassionate and detached manner.

Therefore, one sees this apparently contradictory phenomenon of persons leading a fiercely austere lifestyle and following religion to an extreme (vegetarian diet, teetotaller, puja, prayers, fasting, rituals, pilgrimage, visiting to temples and disciples of spiritual gurus) being corrupt to the core. They would engage in activities (adulterating food or unsafe constructions) that could potentially take human lives – yet consider themselves purer than those who eat meet of drink alcohol.

Whether this has its roots in our concept of Nishkam Karma - is a matter of debate. But, it can be argued – for a thief and a dacoit it becomes very much a part of his vocation or Dharma. One can, perhaps, extend the same logic for the Poppy cultivators – who are a product of an imperfect economic system and inequitable regulatory regime. But, I would draw a line – where people operate out of sheer greed to harm fellow human beings. And, I do believe no God will permit that.

Opium in a Handbag

Reached the end of the “River” and what a beautiful and rewarding journey it was. It’s arguably Amitav Ghosh’finest novel yet and I ungrudgingly take back all the criticisms and reservations heaped on him in my earlier blogs (Click here to read). Though billed as the second part of the trilogy – the narrative sails on its own and the threads linking it with the Ibis (Sea of Poppies) are at best tenuous. Here, the historical backdrop – is not like

a cloak sitting heavily on the story, but - acquires a life of its own as Ghosh, the master of minutiae, paints the canvas with every little detail of a Chinese scroll painting. Unlike some of his previous works – Ghosh doesn’t challenge or intimidate his readers – instead transports them to a charming old world, as if after a few draughts of that magical smoke. The historical details – such as Bahram’s chance encounter with Napoleon - yes, as in Bonaparte – in St Helena does not distract. And, the parallel tale of Paulette and Fitcher Penrose on the Red Ruth

– in search of the elusive Chinese Camellia is beautifully woven into the main plot – probably leaving a

trail to be picked up in the final part of the trilogy. A must read for everyone – even if one had missed The Sea of Poppies.

Handbag as a fashion statement

But, the book I am enjoying immensely is the Political Biography of Mayawati by the journalist Ajoy Bose. I had resisted it for a long time – probably because of my innate prejudice for the subject. But, on my couple of recent trips to Lucknow – I couldn’t help but being impressed by transformation she has wrought to the city. At the risk of being scoffed at by my more evolved friends – I have no qualms in admitting, I found grandeur, vision and aesthetic taste in what had been described as grotesque display of megalomania. Undoubtedly very deep and astute thi

nking has gone behind creation of these monuments of Dalit iconism.

Any future regime thinking of destroying them – would have to do so at their own peril and no naming any number of roads, bridges, airports, educational institutions, hospitals or other centres after members of one ‘family’ - can outdo these gigantic feats of architecture. In any case, it is better than the stadium I believe Mulayam Singh had built in his constituency – which is now a public cattle grazing ground.

It would be fashionable to argue that the humongous amounts of monies spent to build t

hese structures could have been better utilized on power plants and infrastructure projects that would have benefited the people and contributed to the development of the state. But, while roads, bridges and power

projects can be built even through private investments or PPPs – social re-engineering can only be done by the state and it is difficult to put a price tag on the costs of social change. Bose’ book gives a terrific insight to the psyche of Mayawati and, her late mentor, Kanshiram and the movement they created that could well be a turning point of Indian history.

My only worry is – after 400 years when future generations of archaeologists excavate the ruins of the Maya Age of Modern India and unearth the great Behenjis statues – they might mistake her handbags to be the fashion statement of our times.