Showing posts with label Soaltee Hotel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soaltee Hotel. Show all posts

Saturday, July 30, 2016

Nepal Politics - A Game of Musical Chairs


Article Published @Medium

Nepal will has its its 24th Prime Minsiter in 26 years. Not a bad record.

It was customary for Nepali politicians to call up benefactors for donations prior to Dassain (Nepal’s biggest festival — equivalent of Indian Navaratri or Durga Puja) — as they had to dole out bonus to party workers. This was the time, therefore, for businessmen and corporates to avoid calls.
One year, my assistant Babita — a bright young Nepali woman from the Eastern Hills — received such a phone call. As per “SOP” (Standard Operating Practice) she routinely informed the caller — the boss was not around. Being well accustomed to such dodging tactics — the gentleman informed with authority “ I am former PM, Mr……….X)”. Not to be intimidated — the spunky lady retorted — “so many ex PMs keeping calling, how does one more more matter to me?”. Within a few minute my cell-phone rang and it was the same politician’s daughter-in-law — a well known Kathmandu socialite — at the other end calling to complain about the insult meted out to the old man.

After a private reception — my friend AM from the British Embassy found himself stuck with another ex PM at the Soaltee Bar. With about half a bottle of JWBL inside his sytem — the former PM started explaining to him the 4 Noble Truths of Buddha but even after repeated attempts could not get beyond the 3rd truth. Needless to add that — with every frustrated attempt he would gulp down another shot of whisky — much to the dismay of the young diplomat. who was worried about the charge on his rather frugal “Expense Account”.

One can continue with an unending series of anecdotes. Like one evening at an Indian Embassy Officer’s residence — one more veteran “Purba Pradhan-Mantri” arrived looking visibly ruffled. It transpired that — he was on his way back to Kathmandu from a nearby rural constituency when his SUV overturned injuring all the other passengers — but he himself had a miraculous escape. He still made it to the party after getting all his copassengers admitted at a hospital. No doubt — he needed a few quick drinks to soothe his nerves. But, no sooner he was down a couple — he headed straight to the security attache — a stern lady IPS officer who would not normally brook undue attention — and told her without batting an eye-lid “Lord Pashupati must have saved me — because I was ordained to meet you here”.

And, how can one forget the evergreen K P Bhattarai — who even as PM asked a leading Indian Bharatnatyam Star on stage before a 1000 strong guests — are your Miss or Missus ? The lady smiled and said — doesn’t matter you can call me by my first name. Obviously delighted — he retorted, of course it does because I am still a bachelor (he was well past eighty then).

Finally, this blogger had the fortune of playing host to Prachanda in his first foreign public outing to Delhi. He was overjoyed at the treatment he received comparable to a “state guest”. Back to Kathmandu — soon thereafter one heard stories about how he acquired a Red Pajero, the status symbol of any politician of consequence in Nepal.

But, since moving to a Constitutional Monarchy in 1990 — it has been merry-go-round politics in Nepal with the same old protagonists taking turns as rotational tenants at the PM’s Official Residence in Baluwater — except those parted by death or the few new entrants in the post-Republic phase.
The rules of the game is akin to a political pokemon with a binary equation of “Baiting India” and “Sucking upto China” — with collateral revenue streams from the US and other friendly SAARC countries (read Pakistan) and Aid from Donor Countries like Japan and the EU.

With every churn and each elections — there is more money to be made and the purses of politicians become a little fatter and so the drama goes on.

Very little change for the ordinary people and the privileged few don’t change. That remains the story of the beautiful country with one of the nicest people in the world — living a life perpetually on the brink.

Sunday, June 03, 2001

The Kingdom Mourns


A friend has written from Australia : " Ok, I know the Ghoses spread mayhem in their wake, but the current carnage is really too much. Where were U guys ? " S.. had returned from a quick trip to Hetauda earlier in the evening and we were out at a Friday-night dinner with some friends in Tahachal (near the Soaltee - actually quite close to the Army Hospital at Chaoni which was to be the scene for much of the action soon afterwards). The weather was just perfect - we all preferred to sit out, braving the mosquitoes with coils of tortoise under our feet, guzzling mugs of San-Miguel and downing tiny goblets of a lovely fruity bordeux, nibbling at very succulent pieces of a baby "Bandel" (Wild Boar - the highest Newari delicacy), commenting on how this year Kats didn't even have a summer. It was nearly 10' when Sophie and Prem arrived narrating how their little Indica was nearly bumped off the road by some crazy army jeeps. Next to arrive was Rohini who also mentioned that, he had seen a lot of army vehicles on the road . Still, we had no clue of any trouble . Around, 11 - Rohini received a call on his mobile from his BK of the Rads. He talked of rumours about some "serious" developments in the city - hinting probably of a Maoist attack somewhere. Rohini teased him of paranoia - saying he shouldn't take a chance of going back home that night and should sleep instead in his hotel and we all had a hearty laugh over it.
First news trickled in closer to midnight. Sanjib's web-site editor reported the death of Princess Shanti - the King's sister. So, we thought - that was it. But, almost immediately - Sophie received a call from her daughter saying that the Princess was probably "killed" in an attack by the Maoists, the city was very tense and we should all get home fast. The next minute someone else got the information that, there was a shoot-out or explosion in the palace. No one knew the details or what to believe but that's when we all decided to disperse and scrambled for our cars.
The route back home - through Kalimati, Tripureshwor, Bir-Hospital and Jamal - was remarkably peaceful - there was absolutely no signs of any trouble. Only near the Sundhara crossing , there was a rush of taxis - clearing out, what appeared to be, a crowd from a closing discotheque ( Dance & Dinner ) Bar. We deliberately took the route via Kantipath and the West Gate of the Palace. It was absolutely quiet. As we were reaching home in Baluwater, Anil who was following behind gave a ring on the mobile to say "It was all a silly hoax - seems like we have to get used to such false scares". But, the moment we entered the house - there was M… calling to tell what even the worst doomsday prophet could never have imagined in his wildest dreams. A quick check with Tharakkan-saar of the Embassy confirmed the worst had happened.
The rest of the night we didn't sleep a wink. The phone kept ringing incessantly. It was in some ways reminiscent of the night when Rajiv Gandhi was assassinated. Details kept getting added on in bits. Very soon the list of casualties had enlarged from just the King, Queen and the young price (Nirajan) to include even their daughter ( Princess Sruti ), his cousin ( Princess Jayanti - daughter of Princess Helen, owner of the Annapurna ), the King's other sister and her husband. Finally, only at 4 in the morning the news broke simultaneously on CNN & BBC and also came up on Kunda's website of Nepali Times. By then, there were also speculations of a possible emergency and a curfew being declared. Shalini called from Delhi to inform that Rakesh had moved in to the hotel with the boys and suggested that we should go there too. After speaking to Samir, we decided to shift with them to the Anna, as it was closer to home and the office - thinking that would be more convenient, just in case, we get stuck there for long. Besides, we felt it would be a good idea to keep the families and the kids together.
Nepal Radio and TV officially confirmed the news only at 1 ' O Clock on Saturday afternoon - after the Raj Parishad ( the Privy Council ) met and decided on the succession. The funeral procession with the cortege was scheduled to leave at 4 from the Chaoni Military Hospital for the Aryaghat at Pashupati, where the cremation would take place. In between, there was a little time for people to go in and pay their respect to the departed Majesties. We stayed in the hotel and watched the proceedings on TV. One was moved by the spontaneous but simple expression of grief of the thousands who joined the procession. The cremation ceremony - sans regalia - had a touch of austerity that made it even more heart-rendering. Under the arc lights of the TV cameras - Pashupati looked beautifully resplendent in a somber glow.