Heritage Clubs - the last bastion of ''gentlemen''

Dolphin Bar at the Royal Bombay Yacht Club

I won't get into the time  worn argument about clubs being a colonial hang-over and the last refuge for the dying elite who still pine for the Raj. I am an unapologetic Clubby (if there is such a term, like the now ubiquitous Foodie). Friends and family tease me — saying my hobby is to ‘collect’ Club Memberships. But, I leave that for pop-psychologists.  While travelling — both within the country and abroad — I try to take time off to check-out clubs of that city.  

Clubs provide a unique insight into the local gentry. The best dip-stick of a club’s culture is the bar. A good barman has a Jeeves-like quality. He not only knows the favourite tipple of the regulars but is also able to guess the likely preferences of an outstation guest and remember the choice even on the guest's next visit, several months later.

The best way to befriend people is to stand or sit at the bar counter perched on a high stool. Do this even if you are with a companion, especially a lady — it’s the surest way to get people talking to you. All clubs have groups and cliques  — who are standard fixtures in the coffee room or the verandah — but  they  sometime tend to be snooty, incestuous and insular — therefore, better left alone.

The Men's Bar at The Calcutta Club

All about Men

Call me a pig or take me to the gallows of social media, but clubs were conceived for men — or to be more precise, gentlemen. So the character of a pedigreed club is essentially male (quite distinct from masculine — male being a mental attribute whereas masculinity is a function of muscles and hormones). Even if many clubs have opened their doors to women and the “Men’s Bar” is becoming progressively extinct (at  last count, the Bangalore Club, Calcutta Club and Ooty Club were a few remaining with exclusive “Men Only” bars) they are far from gender agnostic. And, “real” social clubs generally do not have sports facilities (best ones don’t even have a gym) — those are meant for Gymkhanas or Sports Clubs — like golf, cricket, football, swimming or tennis.

But, surely like all institutions, clubs need to evolve — without compromising their unique character — otherwise, they go into decay. Many clubs have been ruined by indiscriminately increasing the membership base — in the name of commercial viability — yet some have changed beautifully with the times. The Royal Bombay Yacht Club (RBYC) is one of them.

Bar Night at RBYC

I am 'Royal' and I'm a Club

Until a few years ago it stood like a beauty well past her prime peering over Apollo Bunder (Colaba)  into the Arabian Sea  pining for the good ol’ times. The dining room had a forlorn look with very ordinary fare and the dimly lit Dolphin Bar had a few committed old drinkers. The residential floors seemed haunted at night with cats running amok and the rooms were depressing. But, over the last couple of years RBYC has not only undergone a physical transformation — by restoration experts (not “renovation’’ — as most clubs tend to do) but has also been able to attract young professionals as members, who have made the place “happening’’.  The F&B has improved dramatically with a vastly enlarged menu and even on a regular evening the bar — now emboldened with the finest wines and spirits from the world over (including imported ales and craft beers) is throbbing with life. The refurbished residential rooms appointed with modern amenities, have the feel of a heritage hotel in a prime location at one-fourth the price. To see the sunrise over the Gateway of India — the sea dotted with fishing boats and anchored yachts makes for a truly great start to the day. With increased footfalls the service has also improved, one feels a new energy among the old staff who are always unfailingly courteous and friendly without being over familiar. Yet, with a relatively small membership base (of just around 1400) it still retains a cosy atmosphere with  an appropriate air of exclusivity.

Another Universe

Far away — in another part of the universe — is the Bankipore Club in Patna. The BCP established in 1865, originally called the "European Club’’ in Bankipore (then Civil Station of Patna District) was out of bounds for Indians. Even now, some say in jest it is ‘out of bounds’ for NBIs (Non-Bihari-Indians). But, that’s just a joke. On any evening it has a mela like atmosphere — with litti-wallahs, kebab, chaat corners and the bar resembling an upscale version of a TASMAC outlet down south or Bara-duari in Calcutta’s Jaan-Bazar, for those who know.

The Ranchi Club

In contrast, the Ranchi Club, a wee bit younger, established in 1886 is a pleasure to visit. They have been able to maintain standards not only by restricting membership through discreet screening but also informally discouraging non-member local residents from coming in as guests. The food is good — generally a mix of Indian and desi-Chinese — with some local specialities thrown in like hara mattar (green peas) with roasted chivda in winter. Apart from a daily needs store, there is also a small organic vegetable counter at the entrance — least expected in a small town like Ranchi.

The new Pool Bar at CCFC

A Cricket Field with a Bar attached

Calcutta was the original ‘club’ city of the Raj. Here, the club that has transformed over time (much  for the better) is The Calcutta Cricket and Football Club (CCFC) — allegedly the oldest Cricket Club outside the British Isles set up in 1792 (just five years after the Marylebone Cricket Club). Once known as the club of tea company executives and often jokingly described as “a bar with a cricket field attached”, CCFC is now everything a nice club ought to be, with the old and the new co-existing beautifully. The mahogany-panelled bar with the old staff is an entirely different world from the boisterous sports arena outside where football, cricket, rugby tournaments are held according to the season.  Now that it has a swimming pool in addition to the tennis courts, CCFC has the feel of a gymkhana in the heart of the city. There is also a multi-cuisine restaurant and glass-panelled bar overlooking the sports field on the upper-deck. Members’ Nights and Ladies Evenings with live music in the old Club House are as much of a tradition as the series of musical soirees and concerts on the open grounds through the festive winter season running up to Christmas and New Year.

The future is in the past

So do clubs have a place in today’s world — where leisure is at a premium and tradition at a discount? A club they say is a state of mind between work and home. The President of an iconic club — that still carries the “Royal” insignia — told me that only those clubs will survive the test of time that realise “the future lies in the past” — meaning they have to build on their heritage and tradition to move forward.  Otherwise, they will fade away over time becoming undistinguished and indistinguishable. 

Article originally published in Businessworld India (click here for link)

Also read my earlier blog on clubs Raj Redux

Club Chicken

There is an unseemly controversy at The Calcutta Club over the suspension of 2 Management Committee members – a somewhat usual occurrence, if not entirely unprecedented. One of them had sent out an email to the general members leveling some damaging charges against the incumbent President of the club, which was considered, probably rightly so, as a major misdemeanour not acceptable of a committee member. What the suspension effectively does is to debar the members from contesting the forthcoming annual elections of the club. A political masterstroke of "all the President's men" !!

Politics is not uncommon in clubs. In fact, some would argue – a healthy dose of politics is what makes club life what it is. The antics and machinations of rival groups at The Delhi Gymkhana – especially between its civilian and services factions – regularly make news in the mainline dailies. Members of many well-known clubs have been known to periodically go to court.But, what makes the current imbroglio at The Calcutta Club particularly interesting is that, one of the main issues of contention – is about the affairs of the kitchen and the Bar (Wine and Cigar Department).

In one of my earlier blogs (Raj Redux - click here) – I had described the club – as an extension of the “baithak khana” (parlour) of a North Calcutta Zamindar residence. The atmosphere remains like that of a Bengali joint family of olden days – with their share of enfant terribles and a few black sheep. So, you can trust a quintessentially Bengali institution to get worked up on the highly emotive subject of Food & Beverages.

In the instant case – it appears that, the previous committee had after a lot of deliberation changed the source of fish, poultry and meat supplies from the traditional vendors of New Market – to a Multinational Cash & Carry chain – that came to Calcutta sometime back. This did not go down well with the old guards of the kitchen. The current committee has reversed the decision and re-instated some of the earlier vendors. The letter of the dissenting Committee Members insinuates ulterior motives to this move among a whole host of other damning accusations.

I am not going to take sides, getting into the merits (or, for that matter, the lack of it ) of the allegations – though I would agree that there was serious breach of propriety on part of the earrant committee members in sending out such an email to general members without first tabling it before the committee. But, my concern remains wholly about the quality of food - because for me that's the principle attraction of the club (apart from it's great location) - for which I am prepared to suffer the atrocious service and shameless soliciting (for tips) of the bearers.

Incidentally, the Steward of another venerable club of Calcutta – who too have switched their supplies to the same Cash & Carry outfit – had sometime ago confided in my wife similar reservations about the quality of their stuff, lamenting the fall in standards. One thing I can vouch for is – on a good day, the beckti at the Calcutta Club – in any form, fried, grilled or as meuniere – is simply unbeatable. I can't say that, about the the other club anymore - though it's culinary excellence is legendary and still remains it's sole raison d'etre.

By and large - I have given up poultry – unless it’s the country (desi or gauti) chicken variety or duck. I think the broilers served in restaurants and hotels (now also in clubs) are better described as ‘wrestlers’ – which are as rubbery as they are tasteless. But, there are still a few places – where I eat chicken. These are usually the Muslim eateries in Calcutta or Delhi’s Jama – Masjid area (Karim's or Al Jawahar).

Today, caught in a heavy afternoon downpour on the way back from an external meeting, went to Shiraz in Park Circus for an unscheduled lunch and ordered a Chicken Chaamp to pair with the Mutton Biriyani. It was the breast of a tiny bird – tender and succulent. I had absolutely no doubt in my mind that – it could not have come from a Cash & Carry supermarket. It may not have been a pure grain fed free-range chicken – but it wasn’t from a commercial poultry farm either. The Miyan Restaurateurs and Bawarchis know their chicken for sure – and they could teach F & B Managers at Clubs and Hotels a thing or two about how to judge the quality of meats from the butcherie or vendors of fish and vegetables.